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Every few minutes a particularly large explosion will light up the apartment and we’ll look at each other with a mixture of fear and awe. As part of the “Nowruz” New Year’s celebrations, which are Iran’s biggest of the year and include Zoroastrian rituals and traditions dating back 3,000 years, on the last Tuesday of the year, families gather together in celebration, building bonfires to run around and jump over, lighting off firecrackers, and sending fire lanterns into the sky, all with random outbursts of song and dance.

He was joking of course, but there was a sad element of truth to his words.

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